If you’ve been paying attention, you’ve probably seen the rise in overconsumption and its negative effects on both people and the planet. Each year, Earth Overshoot Day — marking the date when we’ve used up the planet’s resources for the year — arrives earlier and earlier, signaling just how unsustainable our consumption habits have become.
This rising concern has prompted activists, academics, designers, and others throughout the world to develop new solutions to encourage more responsible consumption and production. Among these initiatives, one concept that has been gaining traction is “degrowth.”
But what exactly is it, and why should you care?
Degrowth is an idea and a movement that’s challenging our traditional economic mindset and draws on research from multiple disciplines including anthropology, developmental studies, economics, and environmental science. André Gorz first used the term “décroissance” (degrowth) in 1972 during an international conference in Paris, where he examined the relation between growth and capitalism.
The concept of Degrowth argues that aiming for infinite economic growth, mainly measured by the GDP, is a contradiction to the finite material resources available on our planet. In his book Less Is More: How Degrowth Will Save the World, Jason Hickel writes, “The thing about growth is that it sounds so good. It’s a powerful metaphor that’s rooted deeply in our understanding of natural processes: children grow, crops grow… and so too the economy should grow. But this framing plays on a false analogy. The natural process of growth is always finite.”
Instead of putting economic growth above everything else, degrowth pushes for a society where people and the planet come first. It argues that growth should be focused on metrics such as ecological sustainability and human well-being. Degrowth messages are primarily concerned with the structural dynamics of the Global North because it consumes more than the Global South.
In 2017, a systematic analysis of academic literature by Inês Cosme and colleagues identified that degrowth focuses on three goals: (1) Reduction of the environmental impact of human activities; (2) Redistribution of income and wealth both within and between countries; and (3) Promotion of transition from a materialistic to a participatory society.
Degrowth in Fashion
The days when fashion and style were a testament to unique taste, high quality, and longevity — with clothes often being passed down for generations — are long gone. We now live in an era dominated by fast fashion and a need for variety over everything else. A report by McKinsey revealed that between 2000 and 2014, the number of clothes purchased by consumers increased by 60% with most people only keeping these clothes for about half as long.
And if the fast fashion trends are any indication, these consumption patterns don’t seem to be stopping anytime soon. According to Statista, the annual consumption of garments in 2022 was 183.81 trillion pieces and it’s forecasted to increase to 197.32 trillion by 2026.
We know that this cannot continue forever. Sooner or later the fashion industry — big brands and small designers alike — will have to change. Alongside changes in the industry, consumer demand and behavior will also need a complete overhaul.
Here’s what degrowth in the fashion industry could entail:
- Reducing the number of collections and items produced annually while creating durable, timeless pieces.
- Prioritizing organic, recycled, and biodegradable fabrics, and using low-waste pattern-making, digital printing, and waterless dyeing methods.
- Emphasizing local manufacturing to reduce carbon footprints and build strong relationships with local communities and artisans.
- Implementing recycling, upcycling, and repair programs, and supporting secondhand platforms.
- Encouraging clothing rental and swap initiatives to reduce new purchases.
- Ensuring fair wages and safe working conditions for all workers.
- Promoting mindful consumption, transparency, policies that hold brands accountable, and investing in regenerative practices and eco-friendly packaging.
These measures for adopting degrowth in the fashion industry are promising in principle. But are they achievable in practice?
Barriers to Degrowth in Fashion
Financial Implications:
The fashion industry’s current profit-driven models and the cost implications of transitioning to sustainable practices create significant economic barriers to degrowth. Fast fashion, for instance, focuses entirely on quickly producing clothes and using market trends to encourage repetitive purchases. Brands often resist adopting degrowth principles due to fears of reduced profitability and shareholder dissatisfaction. Becoming oriented to degrowth also involves significant investment in green materials, fair labor practices and new technologies, which is particularly difficult for smaller companies. To complicate things further, degrowth could lead to a transformation and/or loss of jobs for people in the industry, which will require support from not only the fashion industry but also from governmental agencies.
“The majority of commodity production is geared toward accumulating profit rather than toward satisfying human needs. In fact, in a growth-oriented system, the goal is quite often to avoid satisfying human needs, and even to perpetuate need itself. Once we understand this, it becomes clear that there are huge chunks of the economy that are actively and intentionally wasteful, and which do not serve any recognisable human purpose.”
― Jason Hickel, Less is More: How Degrowth Will Save the World
Degrowth is rooted in anti-utilitarianism and anthropology, it advocates for a rethinking of political-economic organization, emphasizing the need to reduce reliance on GDP as an indicator of success. Degrowth involves a broader transformation in societal values and structures, aiming to shift away from the accumulation of wealth and consumption towards more sustainable and equitable ways of living. Crises, from a degrowth perspective, are seen as a result of mismatches between societal desires and the finite limits of resources, and thus, sustainable degrowth seeks to address these crises by realigning societal goals with ecological and biophysical constraints.
Supply Chain Complexity:
The global supply chain in the fashion industry is highly intricate. It involves many stages from raw material sourcing to production, distribution, and retail. Many brands rely on international suppliers and manufacturers to keep costs low and production volumes high. Transitioning to a degrowth model would need restructuring these supply chains to focus on local production, ethical practices, and sustainable materials. This complexity makes implementing degrowth logistically challenging and costly. However, despite these challenges, degrowth can still be a long-term strategy for a more equitable future.
Consumer Culture:
Consumerism has become ingrained in our societal values, driven by the allure of newness and the desire for status symbols. Fast fashion thrives on this culture by offering trendy, low-cost clothing that encourages consumers to keep buying mindlessly. Jason Hickel argues that “Ads create the impression that we are not beautiful enough, or masculine enough, or stylish enough.” The societal pressure to keep up with the latest trends fosters a disposable mindset. This is the anti-thesis to degrowth — which emphasizes mindful consumption and longevity. Changing this deeply rooted consumer culture requires a fundamental shift in how we perceive value and satisfaction. Stepping away from this mindset can help us build a meaningful connection to the clothes we already own. It can also help us reduce waste and champion quality and craftsmanship.
Policy and Regulation:
The existing policies often promote large-scale production and economic development, allowing fast fashion to thrive. When you couple this with a lack of strict environmental and labor norms, most brands find few reasons to pursue sustainability. For degrowth to get off the ground policy needs a rethink in favour of sustainability — such as tax benefits for eco-business, subsidies for sustainable materials, and tougher waste & emission regulation. Effective fashion policy and regulatory work could help drive innovation and set new industry standards that prioritize the well-being of both people and the planet.
The major challenge for implementing degrowth is the entrenched belief in weak-sustainability principles within mainstream politics, which assumes that improving product quality alone can address ecological and social issues. Successful degrowth governance, however, requires more stringent measures, including capping resources and phasing out unsustainable consumption. Building institutions focused on social cooperation, bolstered by NGOs, is crucial for this shift.
Opportunities for Degrowth in Fashion
New Business Models:
The adoption of alternative business models is one of the greatest opportunities to promote degrowth in fashion. Some examples include rental services like Rent the Runway, resale platforms like Depop, and subscription models like Vigga. At the brand level, to reduce waste modern branding can be about repurposing through techniques like recycling and up-cycling, as well as creating products for durability. The sharing economy is one other potential model — this way customers can lease out and hire garments as a substitute for shopping new. In addition, degrowth can be facilitated by locally produced models that prioritise small and community-based production which could reduce transport emissions and aid local economies.
Sustainable Innovation:
Organic cotton, hemp, and recycled fabrics are sustainable materials that can mitigate environmental impact. Biodegradable textiles and lab-grown leather also suggest possible alternatives. Sustainable production practices such as low-waste pattern-making, digital printing, and waterless dyeing can all help to reduce resource use and waste. Brands that decide to adopt these innovations can altogether reduce the fashion industry’s environmental footprint and advocate a more promising future. For instance, brands like Patagonia are investing in circular systems that recycle old garments into new ones. Innovations like biodegradable sequins or algae-based dyes are also setting new standards for eco-friendly production methods.
Changing Consumer Mindsets through Education and Advocacy:
The rising consumer demand for sustainable and ethical fashion, together with education and advocacy activities, creates a tremendous potential for businesses to promote degrowth. As more individuals become conscious of the environmental and social consequences of their clothes purchases, they look for alternatives to fast fashion. Brands can appeal to this demographic by offering honest information about manufacturing methods, using environmentally friendly materials, and focusing on product lifetime. Education and activism are critical components in this transformation. They allow customers to make educated decisions and push industry-wide change.
Policy Changes:
Governments can provide incentives for sustainable practices, such as tax cuts for environmentally friendly firms and grants for research and development in sustainable fashion. Stricter rules on waste and emissions can also encourage the sector to have more sustainable methods. Policies that enhance transparency and accountability, such as mandated reporting on environmental and social implications, can persuade businesses to use more ethical practices. When companies are required to report on these aspects, consumers, investors, and regulatory bodies can make more informed decisions. This can lead to industry-wide improvements in sustainability and ethical standards.
Some researchers advocate for implementing a Job Guarantee (JG), a concept rooted in Article 23.1 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. It upholds the right to paid work for everyone, regardless of economic conditions or traditional employer-employee relationships. Under the JG model, if someone can’t find a job in the regular market, the government steps in as the “employer of last resort.” This means the government provides jobs in public services, community projects, or even the private sector. The goal is to ensure that everyone has access to dignified and meaningful work.
Collaboration and Community:
Fashion brands can partner with each other to share resources, knowledge, and best practices, fostering a collaborative rather than competitive approach to sustainability. Community initiatives that promote local production, repair services, and clothing swaps can also support degrowth by encouraging the reuse and repurposing of existing garments. By building strong, collaborative communities, we can create a resilient and sustainable fashion industry that benefits everyone involved.
Steps to take:
For Consumers
- Shop mindfully by avoiding impulse buys, investing in high-quality, durable items, prioritizing local and sustainable businesses, and embracing second-hand shopping.
- Repair and upcycle damaged clothing instead of discarding it.
- Participate in the sharing economy to reduce waste by renting, borrowing, or swapping clothing instead of buying new items.
- Stay informed about the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry.
- Support brands that are transparent about their production processes, use sustainable materials and prioritize ethical labor practices.
For Brands and Businesses
- Focus on creating high-quality, durable products that can withstand the test of time.
- Adopt circular economy principles by designing products for disassembly, recycling, and upcycling. Offer take-back programs and streamline production processes to minimize waste
- Be open about your sustainability efforts and progress. Transparency builds trust with consumers and demonstrates your commitment to ethical practices.
- Partner with other brands, suppliers, and organizations that share your commitment to sustainability.
- Engage with local communities to support sustainable practices and create positive social impacts. This can include sourcing materials locally, supporting local artisans, and investing in community development projects.
- Work with policymakers to advocate for regulations and incentives that support sustainable practices.
- Provide education and training for your employees, suppliers, and customers on sustainability and degrowth principles.
In the age of climate change and growing social inequality, the fashion industry faces a critical turning point. As consumers, we need to think beyond aesthetics and consider how our choices impact the environment and society. Likewise, fashion brands can’t keep focusing solely on economic growth and profit maximization.
Real, meaningful change in the fashion industry can only be achieved through collective effort.
You can be part of this change by taking the Slow Fashion Season pledge!
Written by Shahmeen Lalani
Shahmeen is a fashion professional with over 7 years of experience in the industry in various roles including designing, styling, and art direction. She earned her MA in Fashion Management from the University of Southampton as a Commonwealth Scholar. She currently serves as the Country Lead for Slow Fashion Movement Pakistan.
