The movie “The House of Gucci” comes to my mind when I think luxury, having recently watched this movie. It’s that moment when Lady Gaga’s character, Patrizia Reggiani, is enraged by the fake Gucci bags while Maurizio Gucci laughs and suggests he might buy them. It’s this scene that Patrizia questions the value of what a luxury piece is, when the quality, and the craftmanship of luxury fashion, is based on solely the look, desire and glamour.
When we admire the sleek designs and stunning presentations on the runway, it’s easy to overlook the incredible craftsmanship behind each piece. Behind the scenes, pattern makers, embroiderers, fabric dyers, jewellers, and even the skilled labourers in ateliers, work tirelessly to ensure that each item meets the highest standards of excellence. Their expertise transforms raw materials into wearable art, embodying the luxury brand’s vision and heritage. Skilled artisans often spend years honing their craft, blending traditional techniques with innovative methods to produce unique, high-quality pieces.
Let’s briefly explore the historical context and my experience at an embroidery atelier, highlighting the craftsmanship and creativity that contributes to the remarkable features and expressions, behind the scenes of runway and luxury brands.
Historical Context of Artisanal Craftsmanship in Fashion
Artisan craft was documented in ancient civilisations, where it was revered as a noble, skilled profession, held in high esteem. The craftsmanship of ancient Egyptian, Greek, and Roman artisans produced goods that not only served functional purposes but also conveyed cultural values and artistic expression. Finely crafted jewellery and intricate woven fabrics were held is prestige with the elite and royalty. The establishment of trade, sourced many precious raw materials, creating precious luxury items for the elite to showcase their wealth and position. Luxury expanded during the Renaissance, which saw many wealthy merchant families in Europe develop a taste for fine items that reflected their status and elegance. Artisans in leather, textiles, and jewellery started marking their work with unique symbols, which has been recognised as an early type of branding, that is the hallmark of contemporary luxury marketing methods today. Post-World War II, luxury brands like Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton revived artisanal techniques, emphasising handmade craftsmanship as a mark of exclusivity and prestige. This era solidified the idea that true luxury involved meticulous craftsmanship. Today, luxury fashion is characterised by a blend of heritage craftsmanship and modern innovation. Artisans and the craftmanship of their work, is celebrated for its authenticity, sustainability, and cultural significance, differentiating luxury brands in mass market.
Profile of Artisan and Their Craft
In May 2023, my friend and I travelled to Italy to explore fashion and indulge in artisan, haute couture, and luxury through the streets and boutiques of Florence, Rome, and Milan. In Milan, we enjoyed a 3-hour tour of Pino Grassi Oricami, an embroidery workshop that has been creating stunning and intricate embroidery for haute couture designers since 1958. They include such luxury designer brands; Giorgio Armani, Dolce and Gabbana, Gai Mattiolo, Bottega Veneta, Emilio Pucci, Genny, Cavalli, Etro, Prada, just to mention a few. Pino Grasso Ricami Atelier showcases the art of haute couture embroidery, highlighting the uniqueness of Italian craftsmanship and artisan skills. Pino Grasso started this atelier after leaving his studies in medicine, to immerse himself in the art of embroidery. His daughter Raffaella now manages the house, with whom we were greeted and given a tour of her house and designers, while they were busy making their work, as we were shown around.
We immersed ourselves in endless samples of intricate embroidery, using glass, fine threads, and innovative materials that push the boundaries of modern haute couture design. We were shown various artisanal techniques and were given insights on precision stitching and appliqué, marvelling at the time, energy, and number of artisans required to complete a single haute couture piece. Talking through the techniques, Raffaella detailed the very specifics of style, technique, pace, that can assess the skill level of the artisan and the overall quality of their embroidery work. For instance, the stitch consistency, requires a uniform stitch in size and tension throughout the design. Irregular or uneven stitches can indicate poor craftsmanship. She showed us backside finishing, and how a good artisan typically ensures the backside of the embroidery is tidy, with minimal loose threads or knots, which indicates careful workmanship. Also, how the design precision and detailing should be crisp, with clean lines and well-defined motifs. She talked about how fine details should be carefully executed without blurring or unevenness. The overall pattern is in a symmetry, that accurately aligns and is well balanced. While machines can replicate details, Raffaela emphasised the importance of craftsmanship. My experience in viewing and embracing the art of embroidery, highlighted important aspects of artisan craft. There is a uniqueness in the design, showcasing the artisan individual style. The quality, and the investment in sourcing materials and methods, guarantees durability and longevity. And also, sustainability; that handmade products are made with environmentally friendly practices and materials, minimising ecological impact. This is why; “Pino Grasso’s intuition, the professionalism of his work, the eye always projected to the future and the firm hand in the search for absolute perfection, make his workshop one of the most important centers of Italian fashion. Not only for the creation of the most precious embroideries, but also for the search for innovative solutions, for the use of unexpected materials or for the invention of new possibilities”.
In an article by Business of Fashion, Mexican designer Carla Fernández who has been at the forefront of ethical, craft-based fashion, states that, “The future is handmade because the objects that are handmade get inspiration from your community…it goes through your eyes, then it goes to your heart and comes out from your hands. And those are objects that have a soul.” There is a human element behind the desire, the glamour and spotlight that fashion runway brings. In a fast-paced, mass production world, prioritising speed over quality, artisans uphold excellence. Their creations remind us that true luxury takes time. It requires patience, precision, and passion. This embodies craftsmanship, merging tradition with innovation, captivating the luxury fashion realm.
Luxury fashion brands increasingly recognise the importance of these craftspeople, often collaborating with them to maintain authenticity and uphold high standards. Their contributions ensure that each piece is unique, durable, and imbued with cultural heritage. Pino Grassi Atelier is an example of the passion, precision, and dedication of these artisans, that truly defines the essence of luxury fashion. Their artistry reminds us that true elegance is crafted with care, patience, and an unwavering devotion to excellence, and embedded in the atelier cultural heritage. In essence, artisans preserve the soul of luxury fashion, connecting the past with the present, and ensuring that craftsmanship remains a cornerstone of high-end design. Their behind-the-scenes work elevates runway collections from mere clothing to artistic expressions rooted in centuries of skill and tradition.
